Now you see it...


Well-Known Member
You did a fine job, it done and painted so fast!

We have 3/4" oak hardwood floor throughout our house...except ceramic tile in kitchen and baths. It's easy to keep clean and much better for the allergies..

DH installed all of our hardwood, because he's very persnickety about how it's done, and didn't want to hear any's been 5 years in this house and no creaking yet :boogie:


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Community Sponsor
tobyn & Corky... have Spackle.. will travel:biggrin:

I just hope that whomever we get does a good job, or else the next thing I do will be floors

Come on up! I can put you to work. Leatherneck is just AWFUL at that job.

I bet you could do a WONDERFUL job on the floors!


Well-Known Member
She does DO Fabulous work indeed. :doubleup: BUT there is NO way I will let her tackle the floor as that requires removal of a subfloor and install of a new subfloor in some areas. :whistle: Seeing red walking around with a sheet of plywood twice her size and half her weight is not a trail I wish to proceed down even though I have NO doubt she would gamely give it a try. :biggrin: Besides the true reasonings that even with a crew doing the work we are looking at probably a week of downtime in our house. :whistle: My belief has ALWAYS been there are jobs U tackle and there are jobs better left to the pros and the flooring project falls in the later category. Feel free to observe ALL U wish darlin as its always nice to have an trusted onsite supervisor. :boogie:

red stripe

Well-Known Member
Red, nice done! Looks better than if the "pros" are doing it!

About the floor; I don't know what type of hardwood floor you have. Over here we usually have oak and the floorboards are about 50 by 8 inches (and less than one inch thick) and there is a "click system" to easy connect them. No need for glue just some tapping.

To put in the floorboards in a room only takes a couple of hours. It's the work before and after that takes time.
Only problem is your knees and back will hurt!

Maybe you have a different system over there, with bigger planks?


Eric, we are looking at the same thing here, only they are about 6 inches wide.

I still think that I could do this, except for one thing.
Over here (or in this area) when they build houses, they use a plywood base in areas where they are putting tiles or linoleum, or in bathrooms, but where they are going to put carpet, the cheapskates save themselves some money by putting pressed board under it.

The hardwood can not go on the pressed board, so in some areas this will have to be ripped out and a new sub-floor put in.

We are doing our kitchen (plywood base) entryway that at the present time has parquet flooring, and down the hall which has carpet so the sub-floor is pressed board. Into one bathroom halfway, the rest of the floor is tiles that we will leave in.

Then we want the dressing room, walk in closet and another bathroom done. other than the bathroom, there is carpet, so a great more pressed board to replace.:doubledown:
Then we want the dining room done.. more pressed board.
So you can see that it is not just laying the flooring, it is ripping out a great deal of sub-floor and replacing.

I can not tackle that.

Now Einstein.. if we decide to do this large media room upstairs.......:whistle:

And The guy we are really thinking of hiring will put in the oak and then stain it to match the existing wood in this house.

red stripe

Well-Known Member
Einstein.. I see that we posted at the very same time:biggrin:

Have no fear... even I am not going to try lugging around large sheets of plywood around...any more:biggrin:


Sweden Unleased - Special Contributor
Red and Einstein, isn't it easier to build a new house? :biggrin:

Mostly over here we have quite good "subfloor" so it's fairly easy to put the new floor on top of it.

I am sure it will be beautiful with the new hardwood floors in your house!



Senior Flea Coller Tester
Nice job red! I'm thinking I'm going to have to take some dry wall off over a pocket door and fix that track that stops the door from gliding shut nicely. Ugh.

We just got back from buying 10 boxes of oak laminate flooring, and we'll go back tomorrow for 10 more boxes. It's the click and tap type of floating flooring. The neighbors did their floor last year and really liked it, so we'll try this year. I know it will be a trial, because it's not one nice square room, but hopefully our marriage will survive. I just have to convince DH that duct tape doesn't fix everything!

red stripe

Well-Known Member
Quick question red.....where you live.....are the walls smooth or textured like they are here?

They are smooth.. mostly because we refinished them.
In the dining room *and a few other rooms) we had to remove wallpaper that had been put directly on the drywall.
I think we pretty much built two of the larger walls.

I will tell you what my biggest hate is.. and so many days I am tempted to spray with water and scrape off...
The TEXTURED CEILINGS! I know why they did them.. as it was so easy to hide their mistakes.
but an uneven ceiling collects dirt. and are a real pain to try to repaint.

red stripe

Well-Known Member
Nice job red! I'm thinking I'm going to have to take some dry wall off over a pocket door and fix that track that stops the door from gliding shut nicely. Ugh.

glo, it is really easy to do.
just cut out the part of the drywall that will even it up into a square or rectangle.
if you can cut it back to the midpoint of a beam then do so.. just as I did in those photos.
then if you need more support, get some "furring strips" you can buy it in the Home depot type stores. it is small pieces of wood that you can snap off by hand if you need to.

I sand a greater area around the hole. just enough to rough it up to take the paint. and when you paint. feather it out past the ares you are covering.

use the drywall screws. do not just grab any screw you have laying around, as the drywall screws will not rust. most others will. You do not want any small rust spots coming through the paint .
Fasten the wood, and I do not reuse the piece of drywall I took out of a wall. I use it as a pattern and cut another piece.
make sure that if your drywall is 3/4 inch or whatever.. that you use the same thickness.

I found that the tape showed through, so I removed it.
If I was using anything for these types of holes, I would use the drywall paper.. not the tape.

Although the pre-cut silver mesh squares that I used for the top large hole worked very well indeed.

Do not rush the job. let that first coat of Spackle dry overnight before sanding it.
even when you use the drywall that turns colour when it is dry.. when doing this type of job, the surface may show as dry while it is still wet on the inside.
Sand, wipe down with a damp piece of paper, re-apply if you need to. And then I paint it. there is nothing like paint to show you any imperfections. If I need to touch up I do so.

red stripe

Well-Known Member
we are putting hardwood in the kitchen and breakfast nook, the entryway, that long hallway and into the hall bathroom, up to the tiled area.
and also in our walkin closet, the dressing area and the bathroom. Plus the dining room and to that back door into the garage or outside.

We want to do up the stairs and this big media room, but that will have to wait.


Sweden Unleased - Special Contributor
Erik.. when I mention "project" to Einstein.. he shudders and reaches for a drink:biggrin:
Wise guy! :biggrin:

Red, have you ever thought of writing a DIY-book? :boogie:

Can you put hardwood in the bathroom?
That is not "allowed" here. Here in Sweden we have tons of rules and regulations for everything and there is a lot of them regarding bathrooms (or all "wet areas"). Here you can only use special linoleum or clinker floor. Below that a special water sealing (like thick paint).
If we don't follow the rules the insurance is not valid, and it can be really expensive if there is a water leakage.



Well-Known Member
Val :) your electrical guy just emailed me, he was sorry to lose his job but he got a great job working for some flooring company........